This is a universal template of a cap you can apply any stranded pattern to. I normally knit caps with a picot edge: it keeps elasticity through many years of wearing; however, you may choose any other solution. The design is not created for a specific yarn weight, so the number of stitches to be cast on will depend solely on your gauge. I strongly advise to knit a twenty-stitch-wide sample and calculate the gauge from it unless you have dealt with the exact yarn-and-needle combination before.
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cast on the necessary number of stitches plus one; it must be a multiple of the pattern repeat (here 23*6=138 stitches) plus one. Divide the stitches on four double-pointed needles evenly (or leave all stitches on circular ones) and slip the first stitch over the last one;
- knit about 15 rows in plain stocking stitch: it is going to be the inner brim. You may include a simple ~ten-row-high pattern there for the recipient's 'private' use (highly optional; see the image just below);
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do one row *k2tog tbl, yo* (knit two together (I do through the back loop), yarn over); you will fold the brim inside along this line later;
- do three rows in plain stocking stitch in the background colour and start the pattern in the fourth;
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knit the 'body' of the cap for ~17,5 cm from the dotted/picot row (I estimate the recipient's head by eye ― S, M, L, XL) and adjust the cap to the head rather by depth than by circumference ― i.e., if I feel it might be slightly lose, it is probably 17 cm, for extra-large heads it may reach 18 cm;
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start decreasing: divide all stitches into six equal stretches of an even number of stitches in each one, adding the extra stitches to the first stretches: e.g., for 138 it would be 24+24+24+22+22+22;
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at the beginning of every row, ssk (slip two stitches knit-wise one by one & knit them together through the back loop; in the chart), at the end of each stretch, k2tog (knit two stitches together; in the chart). Thus, twelve decreased stitches in a row. Between the decreases, carry on stranded knitting according the chart (see the last page);
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when you get to six stitches, bind off; sew the tail through the bound-of stitches several times for reinforcement;
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for a slightly better look, I knit the second and the last but one stitch in each stretch the background colour ― the colour/yarn used for decreasing (at any time two stitches at either end of a stretch are the background colour). If you opt for that, you will need a preparatory round, in which you knit the first two and the last two stitches of each stretch the background colour notwithstanding the pattern;
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now the least exciting thing ― weaving the loose ends in on the wrong side (if any);
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fold the brim inside and sew it up; you can hide the sewing-up thread by placing it vertically inside a knit stitch or between knit stitches on the right side. Stay on the loose side in sewing;
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wash, press lightly in a terry towel & dry the cap; 'heads' made of old newspapers are of good use for that; an extra-large jar will do as well.
1 cm = .3937 inchesstocking stitch = stockinette stitch
colour = color

You are highly encouraged to use the pattern for commercial production: nothing would make the author happier than seeing the market flooded with things made after his design.
gustavs ;)



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